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The Beauty category shows how it is done — together with strong partners from the industry.
The stage was set for a unique collaboration. At the 2023 TFWA World Exhibition & Conference in Cannes, Gebr. Heinemann and L'Oréal announced their ambitious and forward-looking sustainability partnership. The two companies have enjoyed a close and trusting relationship in travel retail for decades — and are now working together on common sustainability goals. Saskia Möller, Director Legal, Compliance & Sustainability at Gebr. Heinemann, says: “It is a promise of Gebr. Heinemann's mission statement that we want to have a sustainable impact on the travel retail industry. In L'Oréal, we have found a dedicated partner with whom we share the same values in terms of sustainability.”
The partnership is based on a joint business plan that defines actions in the areas of “assortment,” “point of sale,” “supply,” and “social engagement.” They will also develop sustainable point-of-sale materials and work together to make the supply chain more sustainable. The joint business plan also includes measures to optimize packaging.
Setting New Standards for the Industry
Guido Tappeser, Chief Commercial Officer at L'Oréal Travel Retail, believes the partnership will set new standards for the industry: “Together with Gebr. Heinemann, we share the same obsession for our customers and shoppers. This partnership is important for two main reasons. First, it is a clear statement of our confidence and strength in a modern partnership between two companies with more than 100 years of history. Second, we want to spread this initiative throughout the travel retail industry to inspire all our partners to become part of this important journey.”
However, the partnership with L'Oréal is only the beginning, as Britta Hoffmann, Director Purchasing Beauty at Gebr. Heinemann, points out: “As a global retailer, we are at the center of the value chain between industry and retail. This provides us with many opportunities to influence the issue of sustainability. Our sustainability partnership with L'Oréal is an important first step. Other campaigns and initiatives with partners will follow. With such collaborations, we want to continue to play a pioneering role in travel retail when it comes to sustainability.”
For established brands and especially for the addition of new brands to Gebr. Heinemann's portfolio, sustainability is becoming increasingly important and plays a key role in product range selection and strategic development. Sustainability is considered and evaluated at both the supplier level and product level. At the supplier level, third-party assessments focus on the environment, labor and human rights, ethics, and sustainable procurement. Meanwhile, product evaluation mainly considers criteria related to packaging and ingredients. These two dimensions are also reflected in the future-friendly project, which is described in more detail below.
An example of the influence of sustainability criteria on the inclusion of new brands is the Skandinavisk brand, which has been listed at Gebr. Heinemann since 2023. Skandinavisk provides collections of home and body fragrances inspired by the Nordic region. The high standards of transparency regarding sustainability are reflected in the B Corporation™ certification. Many of the products, such as scented candles, are vegan and refillable with packaging made from recycled materials.
Collaborations with L'OCCITANE and Clarins
While Skandinavisk is a newcomer to Gebr. Heinemann's shelves, the L'OCCITANE Group, a pioneer in premium sustainable beauty and wellness, and a certified B Corporation™, has been a key supplier for Gebr. Heinemann for a long time. “While we're incredibly excited to be certified, B Corp certification is just the next step in our sustainability journey. We look forward to collaborating with like-minded businesses for the benefit of all stakeholders,” says Laurent Marteau, CEO of the L'OCCITANE Group. One of the joint projects included the “Gift of Nature” campaign at Frankfurt Airport, which ran from January to April 2023 and focused on biodiversity. “We sincerely hope to lead by example and inspire and empower travelers to make more sustainable choices and care for nature. It was great to have Gebr. Heinemann on board for this project, as we share a common vision when it comes to preserving the Earth's biodiversity,” says Laurent Marteau.
Another valuable partner for sustainability issues is the cosmetics manufacturer Clarins. When Gebr. Heinemann invited some key brands to the Beauty Category Days in November 2023, Clarins presented its “Domaine Clarins” project. Nestled in the French Alps, the Domaine is dedicated to observing and growing plants, using old-fashioned growing practices and natural fertilizers. “It is great that Gebr. Heinemann is creating the space to discuss sustainability issues in the industry and thereby driving the issue forward,” says Flaka Hamiti, General Manager Travel Retail Europe at Clarins.
Our sustainability partnership with L'Oréal is an important first step. With such collaborations, we want to continue to play a pioneering role in travel retail when it comes to sustainability.
The Future-Friendly Product Range
One result of Gebr. Heinemann's pioneering role in sustainability was the launch of the future-friendly product range in 2020. The future-friendly range comprises particularly sustainable products.
In the first phase following the launch of future-friendly, specific sustainability standards were implemented that had not previously existed in the travel retail world. This way, Gebr. Heinemann gained valuable insights from both consumers and sales employees, taking the future-friendly concept to the next level.
Two-Stage Process to Become Listed in the Future-Friendly Range
At the same time, the improved concept provides consumers with clear and comprehensible criteria that can be communicated in a transparent and simple way. Companies wishing to have their products listed in Gebr. Heinemann's future-friendly range must fulfill a two-stage process. In the first step, the supplier's overall sustainability performance is assessed and given a rating by a third-party provider, such as Ecovadis, B Corp, or Sedex. Companies that perform well and attain a good rating are generally considered to be future-friendly. For many companies, this is also an incentive to undergo a third-party assessment for the first time in view of the upcoming European Supply Chain Act (CSDDD). In a second step, starting in 2024, products will be rated on their sustainability using a sophisticated scoring system. This scoring system reflects the sum of several attributes of a product's sustainability — be it the raw material used, the packaging, fair production, the supply chain, or other aspects. In total, 12 specific attributes have been identified based on the company's own research, publications, and findings from consultancy firms, reflecting both current consumer trends and expectations regarding sustainability as well as Gebr. Heinemann's high standards for holistic sustainability and against greenwashing. For each product category, such as “perfumes” or “cosmetics”, specific attributes are allocated and weighted by an automated internal rating system.